Mark, one question. Is your die-cut variation #32 Weakies supposed to be red instead of orange, or did something go wrong with the photo transfer? Just wondering.
What are you looking for as upgrades to the borderless OS1 stickers? Pretty sure I have a nice Fink around, and maybe some other extras that would help you.
Too bad you don't have a way to implement the scans into your chart.
It does seem a little more red than orange in the scan. But, it's more orange if you look at it in real life.
But, look at the 1st series Weakies, then look at the Diecut version. The 1st series version, in the scan, is more orange.
So, I'm not sure about that.
Whether it looks red or orange just has to do with how heavily the sticker was inked. My 1st series Weakies seems to be heavily inked and looks red to me.
(https://s33.postimg.org/5vf9aspen/weakies.jpg)
Having scanned over 50,000 vintage packaging pieces in my day, and having had a desire to archive them digitally in an accurate way, I can speak to this issue somewhat and offer additional insight, I think.
Almost any scanner you get is going to have trouble accurately capturing within the orange/yellow range - I've owned a few over the years and every model has had this issue. Within the scanner sensor, it will skew oranges toward the red end of the spectrum. So, baring any post-scan color corrections, whatever red-to-orange issues there may be on the original sticker, it will be aggravated by most commercial/consumer scanners and make it look "more red".
I'm not certain of the causation but it must have something to do with scanner sensors or the bulbs they use to illuminate the subject.
I'm ALWAYS correcting the shift in oranges on pieces I scan. Just had this issue present itself over the weekend when I was scanning a mid-1960's Doritos bag. Lovely oranges and mustard yellow colors that turned more redish and canary yellow before correcting them in Photoshop. :-)
Of course, any fading within the inks of the actual sticker would tend to leave the red plate of the printing less affected than the others, which could also add to this.
So, that's my two cents! And here's that Doritos bag I was working on!
I got my Alcohol Seltzer today, so that's now on there. And, I'm starting to add 1st series stuff.
I am hoping to finish Newtport still. (Cavich Parodies)
Thanks! Hope you think the guide is helpful.
Mark, You are a brave man for taking on a price guide! Kudos to you!
Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see the cloth series stickers listed. No collection is complete without those ;)
I will eventually add Wacky Ads, but haven't seen any real reason to yet as I only own three.Okay, that explains it. Thanks!
I am, though, starting to add the 7th Series. Finally. I actually didn't know that it wasn't already on there, so that sucks.
So, for anyone interested in the prices (or seeing my current collection), there's an update.
Thanks!
Okay, that explains it. Thanks!
Which Wacky Ads do you have?
I own Hurts Tomatoes, #17 (four wackys), and #21 (four wackys).Do you know if they're long perf or short perf?
Do you know if they're long perf or short perf?
They are all short perfs. Aren't long perfs tougher to find?I don't know if the long perfs are harder to find, but I just found out that they came out first, before the short perfs, and that Good and Empty only came as a long perf. The fact that Good and Empty was never replaced once it was pulled is one of the reasons why it's so rare and so desired by collectors, especially if it's in mint condition. Another Wacky Ad, Mixwell Hearse Coffee, was supposed to replace it (and, in fact, it was all finished and ready to go) but, for some reason, it was never released (and remains so to this day).
I created this pricing guide and grading guide like 20 years ago, seems to have withstood the test of time pretty well.
http://www.wackypackage.com/Wacky%20Packs/HTML%20Stuff/priceguide1.txt
http://www.wackypackage.com/Wacky%20Packs/GradingGuide/gradeguide.html
I created this pricing guide and grading guide like 20 years ago, seems to have withstood the test of time pretty well.
http://www.wackypackage.com/Wacky%20Packs/HTML%20Stuff/priceguide1.txt
http://www.wackypackage.com/Wacky%20Packs/GradingGuide/gradeguide.html
Yes, I knew you had that. Tis why I noted mine was essentially pointless, but I should have told myself that three years ago.No way is yours pointless, there are many opportunities for adjustment of mine as market has shifted downward in values since but I predict we are in the middle of an uptick as big money has no place to spend their money so the are collecting again, just look at some recent auction house values. Also people who discovered wackys for the first time 16 years ago with ANS1 may now start to get disposable income and delve into older wackys like we did in collecting wacky ads and diecuts which many of us had no recollection of as kids.
No way is yours pointless, there are many opportunities for adjustment of mine as market has shifted downward in values since but I predict we are in the middle of an uptick as big money has no place to spend their money so the are collecting again, just look at some recent auction house values. Also people who discovered wackys for the first time 16 years ago with ANS1 may now start to get disposable income and delve into older wackys like we did in collecting wacky ads and diecuts which many of us had no recollection of as kids.
Also people who discovered wackys for the first time 16 years ago with ANS1 may now start to get disposable income and delve into older wackys like we did in collecting wacky ads and diecuts which many of us had no recollection of as kids.
I’m going to need a lot of convincing that there is any significant cohort of people who remember collecting wackys from 2004-2007 with any kind of nostalgic passion.Agreed. However, I've noticed a few eBay auctions lately that catch my eye with "vintage" in the title...and they're mid-2000s era stickers. Geez, cover up, your age is showing.
I’m going to need a lot of convincing that there is any significant cohort of people who remember collecting wackys from 2004-2007 with any kind of nostalgic passion.
Those were the first Wackys I had.
More than anything, I find it interesting seeing which of my values line up with your’s, and which don’t. Some of them are similar for sure, but some are fairly different. That would very well be an issue on my part, but I’m not sure.Call out some differences and let's kick around where the values should fall, I am game.
I’m going to need a lot of convincing that there is any significant cohort of people who remember collecting wackys from 2004-2007 with any kind of nostalgic passion.I said "may now start" and the good part is you don't have to be convinced!
Call out some differences and let's kick around where the values should fall, I am game.
I’ve never understood why Lavirus would be valued lower than Paul Maul. As a side of the sheet sticker with that black mark next to it, it is very condition sensitive.
And Ernie’s price guide was made before the steep jump in 16th prices, so his are likely low.
I think in almost all cases your prices are more accurate than mine, the big 7 prices have dropped a bit(bandache, paulmaul, Mutts, Lavirus, Run Tony Spit n Spil and Grime Heavy. Series 16 has definitely gone up as Dave said. I think you might be over valuing black ludlows and under valuing red. 1st tans are more than whites but less than black luds. I do think 14th trifolds are worth more, probably double the regular values. 13th whites are tricky as a seller from NY and all is alter ids are selling 13th whites that are basically the uncut strips that were dumped on ebay recently as cut up singles. 13th whites probably go for $50 each.I have to agree with you on the Tri-folds. Just trying to get a grade over a 5 on them is an accomplishment. Most of the ones I have found are because the seller didn't know that they were even there. As more people become aware of the scarcity of them the value will climb on them. The strips that were cut where did the influx of those come from? Are they true white backs or are they something else. Nice thing to know is those will not make it to PSA as they will not be min-siz.
I think in almost all cases your prices are more accurate than mine, the big 7 prices have dropped a bit(bandache, paulmaul, Mutts, Lavirus, Run Tony Spit n Spil and Grime Heavy. Series 16 has definitely gone up as Dave said. I think you might be over valuing black ludlows and under valuing red. 1st tans are more than whites but less than black luds. I do think 14th trifolds are worth more, probably double the regular values. 13th whites are tricky as a seller from NY and all is alter ids are selling 13th whites that are basically the uncut strips that were dumped on ebay recently as cut up singles. 13th whites probably go for $50 each.
I had first series tans at 5x white back prices, is that about right? I believe it was the same number you had. I'm not exactly sure where to put the black and red luds because I had trouble getting pricing on them when I was doing this. I had 14th tans at 1.5x white back prices and tri-folds at 3x. A bit generous by your take. With this, my 13ths were $3 a piece with white backs being 30x value. So, I essentially almost doubled your estimate. Again, this was probably because I could not find any on the market at that time. This will be changed.
I can probably help out with the 13th whites. They are extremely rare in the wild and I am not counting any of the recent Ebay so-called 'test 13ths'. I am very close to completing a set that are not anything like the recent Ebay ones. These are fully kiss-cut and do not have that weird glossy, clear film that the uncut Ebay ones have. I purchased a strip of those just to compare and talked with Ernie a little about them due to some serious concern on them possible being printed recently. With that being said, I have accumulated mine over the past 20 years from various sources and have paid anywhere from $30-$150 apiece for them. I think your price would be pretty darned accurate around $90-$100/ apiece.
In regards to the Ludlows, I think John Kosturik is the expert on those with him keeping a full database and recently finishing his sets as well. Maybe he can chime in on this to hlp you out.
I had 14th tans at 1.5x white back prices and tri-folds at 3x.
I am not counting any of the recent Ebay so-called 'test 13ths'.
These are not true Wacky Packages that came from the wild. They're being sold by kane-and-romita. I bought something from that seller, and the PayPal funds went to Matt Stock, so that alone would question whether they've been printed lately.lol, of course Kane and Romita is matt. I am fairly certain he bought and cut up many of the uncut 13th strips from the guy who has an infinite supply of late 1970s and 1980s uncut baseball card sheets. He has a friend, brother something, story changes each time I interact with the guy who got all this from topps. Love the "double" series 1s that he is selling trying to make it mysterious as to what they are yet everyone one of those doubles exactly corresponds to positioning on a series 1 sheet.
Congrats Brian on getting close to a complete set of the true 13th whites. I only have Beastball. :sad:
What about glossy back series 1? they are much more scarce than regular backs, less than 20% seem to be glossy.
Also there are distinguishable diecuts on Minute Lice and Grave Train. I can say with certainty the cuts on Minute Lice are not equally distributed, the sharper angle cut(what I call 60 degree) seems to be half as frequent.
I have nearly 1000 series 1 stickers from a variety of sources so I feel I can make some accurate observations.
Quite honestly I never heard of 14th series glossies. What is glossy the front or the back?
lol, of course Kane and Romita is matt. I am fairly certain he bought and cut up many of the uncut 13th strips from the guy who has an infinite supply of late 1970s and 1980s uncut baseball card sheets. He has a friend, brother something, story changes each time I interact with the guy who got all this from topps. Love the "double" series 1s that he is selling trying to make it mysterious as to what they are yet everyone one of those doubles exactly corresponds to positioning on a series 1 sheet.
Did you notice that the latest double series 1 auction don't even have a copyright on them?I don't track his auctions, were they off center?
I don't track his auctions, were they off center?
(https://i.postimg.cc/FRpDdxLX/Capture.png) (http://www.wackypacks.com/stickers/13th_series/WackyPackages13thSeries_TransparentVariations.pdf)I was the first to report these clear acetate border 13th whites as I obtained partial sheets of them(not 5 card strips) long ago. TI I traded many emails with Lonnie and I told him I have in my position 13th whites that ARE diecut and NOT clear acetate border. Some of what I have are from cutting up uncut sheets that were in the wild and some are ones that were just mixed in collections I purchased but I did notice a trend that Colorado seemed to be a source of numerous 13th whites much like Illinois, Tennessee, Massachusetts are heavy sources of ludlow backs and Missouri is a heavy source for 3rd white backs. There seems to be geographically trends. The border on 13th whites I have from uncut sheet also seem more glossy than typical cards so I am wondering if there are three types of 13th whites, clear acetate, glossy opaque and normal think white border.
Click on the image to get to the article...
5th series glossies are by far the most common glossies. They do look a lot better but I have never noticed them sell at a premium. Even 4th and 6th glossies which are much rarer (especially 6th) don’t seem to attract much interest.
I've changed a lot of stuff on my website in case anyone's interested in looking.
I also specifically modified a few prices, such as:
1st Paul Maul from $40 to $35
1st Lavirus from $30 to $35
Diecut Breadcrust #37 from $50 to $125
Diecut Cracked Jerk #38 from $50 to $20
If any of these values sound off, as well as others on the site/spreadsheet, let me know. I'm all ears. In case you don't know, the values are supposed to be based on an EX+ grading scale.
I also specifically modified a few prices, such as:
1st Paul Maul from $40 to $35
1st Lavirus from $30 to $35
Diecut Breadcrust #37 from $50 to $125
Diecut Cracked Jerk #38 from $50 to $20
can I have the link to your website? Thanks.
Just curious what information you're using to make the changes.
Has anyone done a search on eBay to get prices of sold items and base the price on that? I know eBay has a search available for sold auctions, but it would be too time consuming to run it manually on every sticker. You'd definitely need to build something for this unless eBay has an API to query the data in bulk. Even then, the problem would be sorting through the descriptions to get the true meat of each auction. I doubt you could find enough of a sample size on every sticker to make an educated assessment of prices.
Maybe this is already being done, but I would label the prices as "last seen price". If you see an item on ebay in an auction and then attempt to sell that same item in an auction soon afterwards, theoretically the price would be one bidding increment above the 3rd high bidder's bid in the earlier auction. Theoretically. It has seemed uncommon in practice for the 2nd high bidder to pay the full amount of their high bid in a "second chance."
https://sites.google.com/view/wackypackagespriceguide/homeI agree with you, no price guide on items that are available in quantity uses the last price as "the" going price. At any moment in time depending on who is looking at the time prices can fluctuate a bit. Using a large sample size is the way to go. My prices were based on my years of experience with thousands of stickers passing through my hands. I haven't adjusted the guide in like 15 years and it is still pretty good. While some feel there is no new demand for original series coming, I know they are wrong. I am very actively getting requests and I don't advertise at all any more and prices are reasonably stable on ebay.
There is also a link (click on image) on the first post.
A lot of the prices for commons don't really fluctuate so I don't find a need to rapidly search for those making a $1 difference. They kind of just come from what I've paid. Other prices for bigger titles come from either recent eBay auctions or just what I've seen them priced at reasonably. I have no clue what you're referring to regarding "building something".
I am not entirely sure about this theory. If I lost an auction where I bid $50 on a 16th sticker, I would definitely be open to spending $50 on another. The last seen price isn't always an accurate indicator because demand might be low/high, and the grade may be quite off in either direction too.